Brendan Doms

We woke up bright and early on Tuesday the 14th - a fact I bemoaned greatly - in order to catch a boat down at the Reykjavik harbor. It was whale watching time.

After plodding around the ship hold turned museum turned gift shop, we boarded the Elding. The harbor was peaceful in the morning, and we were some of the first to arrive aboard.

Reykjavik's harbor stands still in the morning quiet before we embark.

By the time we embarked the ship had filled with tourists speaking a dozen different languages. Our very Icelandic-accented, conspicuously young and female tour guide rattled off in English and German about life-vests, life-boats, and our plan for the day. To prepare for the cold and wet we opted to suit up in bright orange jumpers, the kind you would see on a real fishing vessel. They added some weight and made walking slightly more awkward than even the usual listing of the deck, but the extra warmth was worth it.

Our first stop was an island full of puffins, those penguin-like birds that can actually fly. They squatted on ledges, chomped on fish, and darted through the air before us, competing with seagulls for land and prey.

An island of puffins and seagulls in the bay.

We then headed out into the open water, excited for the main attraction. We saw a lot of "harbor" porpoises, and the occasional minke whale, though it was never much more than a dorsal fin and a shadowy back, the water forming an impenetrable surface we couldn't see beneath. The only warning to their arrival was the rare snort of the whales gusting water out of their blow holes upon surfacing. Sadly, we never got to see one jump or breach, although it was comforting to see them free in their native environment.

Back at the docks, we made a quick lunch of lobster soup at the Seabarrin. It was a scrumptious and thankfully hot meal with which to split the day in half.

We then boarded a bus for a good forty minute ride out to the world famous Blue Lagoon. It is Iceland's main tourist trap, and while I knew it was some kind of commercialized hot spring, I wasn't sure what else to expect.

The bright but murky water of Blue Lagoon greets us on our way in.

In order to go back into the bathhouse we were required to get waterproof electronic bracelets. These things were awesome, and I firmly believe that every pool, community center, resort, hotel, etc. should be using them. In the changing room they secured the locker for you - a key you can't easily lose. And in the pool they charge any drinks you get at the swim-up bar to the bracelet, which you pay for all at once on your way out when you give the bracelet back. It really is an elegant system.

The main pool of Blue Lagoon, filled with tourists.

The Blue Lagoon itself was just a big, naturally ground-heated pool that never got more than three feet deep. There were some showers, a sauna, and an artificial waterfall to round it out. Free white mud placed at regular intervals along the edges made for convenient ammunition for smearing on your friends' faces.

The second half of the day spent there lounging in the hot water was a welcome relaxation after the strenuous hike. My aching muscles welcomed the relief. And when it was over I slept the entire bus ride back into town.